sensing place part II: Duke Forest

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With space for three abreast, the trails feel more like logging roads, which they sometimes are. On them I can’t seem to get lost despite my trying the dead ends, which usually aren’t.

Where the pea-gravel stops, some adventurers have worn faint paths windingly through the forest for those who don’t wish to turn back at the sign. But these were practical adventurers, because their singletracks soon loop up with another sanctioned trail, the foreign but familiar gravel underfoot. At least they looped at all, so that others might discover for themselves these faint connectors and for a while, alone, lope.

This forest is “managed.” It has Stewards and Standards. Rest assured, the Rainforest Alliance approves. Even the wood, apparently, is Smart.

My brain gags on these indegestibles. Must we swallow such loaded, manufactured language as the official Idiom of Sustainability, or is that Ministry still accepting applications?

But damn, I guess I’ll approve too.  The birds seem to, and the deer, if intercourse counts as a standard. And could they help it? To manage something is to already have invaded it, and this land, like the rest of the Carolinas, was farmed to near infertility back before the Great Depression. There was no going back.  The Land Institute, I think, gets it right. We don’t need to fix the problems with agriculture; we need to fix the problem of agriculture.

The colonizers that took over the abandoned fields succeeded into different forest types than before.  The “pre-colonial composition” is something we can only talk about—or carefully manage into existence, and even then, the soil probably wouldn’t support it, or the budget. But these colonizer species were quicker, less picky about nutrients and quality of earth. They were adaptable. Don’t hate those slender pines for being so successful; they were opportunists. (Who ever said modernity doesn’t learn from the land?)

The animals are learning too. Right here we’ve got birds rallying their troops for war, deer rolling around in the pine straw, and a few documented cases of obese raccoons. Really, the animals are going to be fine. At least the opportuntists will, the crows, does, and garbage eaters.

But have you heard about the albatrosses near Midway Atoll? It’s easy enough to believe in management solutions, in better standards, in animals adapting and surviving on our waste piles or within our suburbs like the thriving white-tail. Maybe the rest will get innovative with their habitat and corridor requirements, find drainage ditches under the interstate to new mating grounds. That, or, for the good of all, they’ll be “creatively destroyed.” It’s easy enough to believe because there’s no truth in it. The truth is we’re insupportable. It takes something ridiculous like these albatrosses to remind me on occasion, but I cried real enough and wished I had something more specific to atone for than our increasingly abstracted coexistence.

Can you believe it wasn’t the toxicity of the trash that killed them? Even the young ones ingested lighters, candles, toys, and plastic rubbish until their stomachs were three-quarters full. The mothers often fed it to them, after finding it afloat on the waves—2000 miles from any continent. Still they lived on this garbage—that’s more adaptable than we. They died from starvation when their stomachs had no room for food. Don’t be a fool. To this, none can adapt.

I rarely see trash in these woods, not even the beer cans and condoms you’d expect on the outskirts of a university. Humans pick up most of the dog poop too, and that’s considered a highly responsible act. I suppose the stewards take care of the rest.

In light of the albatross, that word responsible feels feeble applied to dog poop. In light of the albatross, my knees feel knocky walking these trails. My conscience, too, feels queasy because this is precisely that abstracted existence I can’t seem to expiate, yet can’t seem to forget.

I appreciate this forest, and will continue to walk here, even lope. But as a refuge, it won’t do. Leopold bought a shack on a sand farm, long abandoned, and tried to rebuild with shovel and axe “what we are losing elsewhere.” Scaled up and jargoned out, I suppose Duke Forest is doing the same—trying, though not always succeeding, to improve parcels of degraded earth and learning in the process.

As for me, if I am to offer real penance, I need a way to more intimately see my own albatrosses and daily live among them, the dead ones and living. Away from management, I would do better in a small place with its own marks of degradation and my own axe and shovel so that we both might be improved through work. I would need a shack place that reminds me of the larger places, though I may not live up to them.

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sensing place

Sense of place is important to me, a necessary ingredient for health and an extension of my own self and existence in a particular region. But developing one becomes slow and tedious if interesting. Having lived in Durham for three weeks now and still transitioning from my Appalachian existence, I have much acquainting to do here. Walking and biking to most destinations has helped  get me at least settled, but my “sense” lacks orientation. This is Part I of a three-part musing on adjusting out of the mountains into the far edge of the piedmont and its many mixed forest types. How to relate?

I’ve been looking for a mentor in these woods.
The plant types, patterns, and successions,
Have scratched but not etched my lobes.

I’m still bewildered by the slender pines
Whose flexibility frightens my reasoning
As it upsets my familiar,
And by the clay, which isn’t red.

The forest floor feels too spongy,
As if to caution the walker
With lumps of needles and dents from windthrow.

Ridiculous you know,
To think a mentor can be ‘looked for.’
Or that if found, it would be anything more
Than a mirror of moss for peering
Or a dense thicket offering visionary glimpses–
The creation of one’s own imaginarium.

Still I wonder does such a place awaken
Anything less than what the mentor evokes?

Grubbing, I’ve felt sprouts of intimacy
For close-up spaces,
Inner, quite, and outer.
By killing them each season over,
I’ve learned how to keep them.

Staring, I’ve felt empowered by a wind
And then without identity
When it shifted. I laughed
Because what else could I?

Walking, I’ve felt like a disfigurer
Trampling on this world’s holy transfigurers
And wanted to atone for what I could not.
I learned, at least, how to be alert,
How to trace the intimate
Amidst the larger places and cagey people.

This humble counsel with organisms
May never finish, approve, or release,
For its terrific lack of objectives.

But the nurture and wisdom,
As much as I can attest,
Is no less–and probably more,
For its moss.

 

–MKS

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Ideation

Specialist, I’m not. But as avid dabbler, ideas leak like mercury–which sustains me heartily in romping five days a week with children, K-5th. This week we made trail-mix cookies, learned how to play kung-fu, made our own cartoon strips, solved riddles, created new riddles, and played four-square, during which time I learned many new and confusing rules. Alas, I now intimately understand the phrase “playing old school.”

Happy Friday.
If you are a dabbler, you likely need no help.
If you are stuck in a trance rendered by prolonged specialization,
Then enjoy this first installment of Frideation: Resources for the weekend.

Drink: Highland’s Gaelic Ale, Samuel Smith’s (anything)

Think: On Being, with Krista Tippett. Or more specifically, her show The Poetry of Creatures.

Design: Saving Food from the Fridge, by Jihyun Ryou. Or read the article about it here. Should the refrigerator, in

its hulking size, actually be defined as an energy-wasteful receptacle for little more than “condiments and compost?” Storing certain kinds and combinations of produce in the fridge can make them go bad faster. This design will make your walls stylish, carrots crisper, energy bill smaller, and teach you how to properly treat certain foods.

Cook: Lentil-Walnut Burgers, a favorite. We had them this week for Adam’s birthday. For a lack of breadcrumbs, I used oats and quinoa instead.

Or, an alternate pizza idea that I talk about too much: Beet pizza. Use your favorite pizza crust recipe, or if you haven’t much time, here is a quick whole wheat one. Top with tomato sauce, thinly sliced beets, onions, crushed walnuts, your favorite green (collards, kale, spinach), and a stronger cheese like feta or gorgonzola.

Plan: your garden. Time to order some seeds and draw a plot. Save some small containers to use as pots. Think long term. Berry bushes, fruit trees? But protect them from deer, if applicable.

Listen: to Frightened Rabbit, their CD called “Midnight Organ Fight.” If you like folk/rock bands from the UK like Mumford and Sons, they might appeal to you.

I take credit for none of these, as they’ve all passed my way from a diversity of places and people. There are no parentless profunditites.

–MKS

 

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literal/figurative

To clarify, I highly recommend trying raw milk some time, if you can find it. (Go to a farm). Drink it whole; you’d be stupid to skim off those clumps of cream rather than savor them.

As for language, it ought to be leaner, meaning less obvious and superficial. Less bullshit. (See post: Skimming). It too should be raw, meaning not manufactured, sanitized, or sweetened. More personal and local. More honest.

–MKS

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the fat of feeling

Please, everyone is hammy.

Why muster this sudden serious?
Place it back on your shelf for another dormant decade.
Get serious. Dust off your fledgling manifesto. Unfinish it.

If some politics lies behind this,
Demand what you deserve from it without the exceptions.
Find its throat and throttle it silent. Make it speak plainly. Keep the scalpel ready.

Why now uncork this volatile passion?
Manipulation is not belonging, pride not loyalty, health not a hormonal experiment.
Get passionate. But examine these impulses before you precipitate something scary.

If some spokesman lies behind this,
See the ideology generating his noise and muffling dissent.
Unplug his mic. Paint a mural on his bus. Eat your melon. Throw the seeds.

What did you expect?
A sudden efficacy from our national dramatics?
A swift organizing of our many apathiests?

We’re hamming it up big time.

This, not the free market, may be the secret success of democracy.
We can export our jobs and import our food, but we still eat our own ham.

Because drama isn’t unserious. We’re quite serious
about believing our performances. Just not seriously.

Which is why democracy still works.
Its just not working.

Do not fear being called a cynic if you’re not one. Push on.
At sixty, they’ll be crotchety and you’ll be back to Utopian for your grand finish.

Call home your passion from that silly pep rally. Heel.
Call home your soul from the landfill. Heal.

Eat your ham. I suppose we must. Know where it comes from. Carve it yourself.
As for the ideologues, carve them too. They’re just bad historians.

Send out your passion to the dejected lot. Rally there. Rally them.
Send out your soul to fill the fractures in others. Greet both more perfect.

–MKS

[I’m now living in Durham, NC. Mail is welcome at 2417 West Cornwallis Road (27705). Come visit. My goal is to post bi-weekly at minimum, for my sake more than yours. Pictures, prose, and recipes. Enjoy.]

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skimming

I nearly forgot (not really): I finished the trail!

victory hang above the terminus on Springer Mtn

My days of skimping have given way to a new project: skimming.

Though I always try to be thrifty and de-possessed of my self, material goods, and unhealthy attachments, I can no longer skimp like I could on the trail. Alas, I’ve inherited new responsibilities and goals. Already I’m surrounded with goods, garbage, clothes, ads, words. Material abounds. I’m going to keep blogging, post trail, with a new project: to confront and submerge myself in these materials in order to see what floats to the top. Then I’ll skim off the fat–the trashy trash, the wordy words.

What junk don’t we need in order to see more clearly? What words and phrases need paring down, unclogging, or burning off like warts from the surface of our language, so that we can speak more cleanly with each other? My theory is that this blubber of language will float to the surface; it is the stuff that floats most closely to our ears, the stuff that is most readily accessible to loose tongues, most tempting to lazy minds and greedy senses. It is everywhere. If we would but pause for a moment, it would rise to the top and thus be easily skimmed. If we don’t, it remains unrecognizable as we drink it in, clogging up clarity with pop-wisdom and poop-merchandise.

Look for the new format and new posts soon.

For now, I’ll end my AT journey with a scribbling I wrote this past week. For those of you who don’t know, my grandma passed away while I was celebrating atop Springer Mountain. Literally I was at the terminus when she stopped breathing. I spent last week in Indianapolis and now I’m back in Chattanooga working at Rock/Creek Outfitters for the holidays. Here is my final reflection:

So Grandma is dead now—

Finally.

(Can one “be” dead?)

At least I can say it with finality—

(What else makes us confront finality so?)

 

She has “let go,”

“Had one foot in each world” and made her choice,

Said the nurse from Hospice,

A sweet lady (I’m told).

What an odd bag of spiritual phraseology

Tossed together with precise instruments.

They are precise alright, Hospice,

Had it down to a science—

Months, days, hours, (minutes?)—

A job well done. Well, done at least.  That much is certain.

I take back what I said about odd.

Faith and science, that’s not so odd.

That’s where we’re heading now anyway,

Not because we’ve all thought it through

And expanded our conclusions, nets, theologies,

Done some gymnastics and decided:

The two are (im)perfectly compatible—

Certainly not because we’ve realized language is to blame again,

For drawing lines and distinctions,

For creating edges and fractures

Not necessarily real, but necessary—

But because we haven’t thought it out,

Believed instead, in a culture that looks to science for security,

In precision, which takes the problem of language to an extreme,

Breaking down, breaking down again,

Further, further still (in search of what? A hollow exactitude?)

But to believe in precision still requires a dose of faith,

So let’s retain the other-worldly phraseology.

Nevermind that to live unthinkingly requires a lot of faith

(let’s not call it trust since we tend to trust no one)

Even if you don’t care a lick about precision.

 

Then we’re at the Cracker Barrell

(you can’t argue with that)

To break her favorite waitress the news.

Turns out she already knows,

That kind of attention earned her four stars on the apron.

Might as well try the Sunrise Sampler while we’re here,

Exchange some tears with this Patti,

And some coffee.

 

Cut up the pancakes like she would for grandpa,

Who died with Alzheimer’s,

Or, as my mom pronounces it, “Old Timer’s”—

That’s on the menu too, next to the Sunrise Sampler.

 

I have to silently curb my cynicism

About this franchise and its grand illusions,

Allusions to a bucolic past.

Were those washboards and farm instruments on the walls

Leftover from the depression and decades of disuse

Or manufactured in China?

Do they call it the Old Timer’s breakfast

Because the food is old?

(Nothing get prepared in house, only packages opened and heated).

I have to curb this because Patti’s tears are real

(you can’t argue with that).

 

An Irish Catholic, grandma went to daily mass,

And then Cracker Barrell—daily.

She had giftcards of course,

Being frugal and a pack rat

Like so many other Depression babies.

(Hey, I think, we’ve got a depression too,

Bloating right in front of us. Where’s the thrift?)

 

Once I’ve kicked the cynicism,

I realize the food is appropriate

Because grandma wasn’t only influenced by depression

But also by the 1950’s:

She had seven children during that time.

When we’re cleaning out her assisted living apartment,

I pack up the TV trays—

What a revolution in cooking!

 

My focus returns to the meal, and I think:

If Cracker Barrel can accommodate the sampler platter of emotions

Associated with death and remembrance,

Then swallowing faith with science is gravy.

–MKS

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all adventures

come to an end. This one, like so many others, ends with me arriving home–alive and on foot. HOWEVER, I’m not there yet, so this is your last chance to send mail, come walk with me, or come to the southern terminus as Springer Mtn on OCTOBER 29th. The road crosses 0.9 miles from the terminus, so you can walk the last mile with me or wait at the ending and party it up appalachia-style.

If you want to walk with me anytime from here (Newfound Gap in the Smokies) to Springer, text me and I’ll make it happen.

If you want to show up for the terminus party, you can either let me or my mom know. Or you can make it a surprise. (I’ll be finishing around NOON). Bring whatever food, drink, instrument, firework, boombox, etc you feel appropriate.

If you want to write a final letter, I suggest this template:

“Dear Treebeard (you wandering vagabond of a rascal, you),

Congratulations on completing this journey. Now, go shave, and welcome to 21st century society, a cutthroat capitalist marketplace where there will be much weeping and gnashing of teeth. Good luck competing in this battlefield now that you find yourself without money, car, job, or apartment. Don’t fret; hope endures. Your mother will accept monthly rent. You can work for free in order to build your resume. Krispy Kreme doesn’t lock their dumpsters at night. And biking is a great way to keep the weight you lost off. Oh… and here’s 20 bucks just to help your cause and to say thanks for having such an entertaining and thoughtless blog. Go get ’em!”

The final address: Michael Short // c/o General Delivery // Hiawassee, GA 30546 // please hold for thru-hiker // eta october 23rd

Thanks to everyone for your encouragement and support along the way.

Best,

MKS

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The road to Damascus

…is now behind me, given way to the road to Springer Mountain, Georgia.

On Friday I hiked into Damascus, the trail town on the VA-TN border, with two close friends at my sides. At altitude, the air has become chilly, the leaves colorful, and the nights pleasant for coma-like slumbers. This is what I’ve been hiking for, why I chose to go South, and the season that has been teasing me all the way down the coast since I began in a mild Maine summer. Though I’m not done yet, less mileage remains than the length of Virginia, and Autumn induces a nostalgia such that I’m already reflecting back on the trip. May this reflective mood help me enjoy the final month.

“Will you be a reader, a student merely, or a seer? Read your fate, see what is before you, and walk on into futurity.”

 

Come visit me in Hot Springs, NC (the closest trail town to Asheville) on October 11th or 12th… or send a mail drop to:

Michael Short // c/o General Delivery // Hot Springs, NC 28743 // Please hold for thru-hiker // ETA October 11th

Or come visit in the Smokies on the 16th or the southern terminus at Springer Mtn on the 31st!

Best,

-MKS

 

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Hasten slowly

Greetings again. I’ve made it to Daleville, Virginia, and 700 miles has never felt less daunting.

I nervously flip through my guidebook counting the weeks: only 2 more in Virginia to the Tennessee border? Then 1 to the Smokies? Then 1.5 after the Smokies to the southern terminus at Springer Mtn? That’s the sketch.

Really, there’s not much I can do except stay present in these woods and enjoy the fullness of the walk. Attempts at speeding up or slowing down rarely end well on the trail. They seem imprudent and possibly hazardous to the completion of the hike–speeding up leads to injury, decreased awareness, and a narrowed obsession on miles per day; and, curiously, slowing down can also lead to a decreased trail awareness as one’s attention searches out comforts, machines, and entertainment that we’ve spent so long learning how to not miss. Forced slowness can also derail a rhythm, remind the body of its deep aches and pains, and tempt one to cling onto this journey longer than is healthy. The trail, contrary to how some speak of it, is not a reality in itself but rather part of a much larger one. I’ve seen some hikers gain a greater understanding of this reality–widen their worldviews–through this experience of diverse plants and peoples; however, just as many shrink down their awareness and worldviews like a coat clung around their shoulders as they stare into nightly campfires talking about the AT as if it were synonymous with life and the world entire. My affinity for backpacking makes me wish I could say, “and it may be.” But another voice says to enjoy those nights when you can experience the world through walks and campfires and tales, but mind the word “through.”

All in all, I believe most hikers, by this point, have come into a pace appropriate for their own purposes, whether they realize those or not.

Enjoy:

Next address:

Michael Short // c/o General Delivery // Damascus, VA 24236 // please hold for hiker // ETA Sept. 30

As always, best to all,

-MKS

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mere smoke of opinion

My journal and I have mulled many nights over reasons why people hike the trail, why I hike the trail, and, if I’m feeling ambitious, over a sense of purpose out here. Some want to find out about God, some want to preach about God, but you don’t have to be out here to do that.

Some want to find out about nature, some want to promote outdoor activity, but you don’t have to be out here to do that either. Most of the time, the AT is equal in “wilderness experience” to your local park, sidewalk, and creek bed. I don’t mean to disappoint; my imagination has spent more years content playing in a creek bed than anywhere else on Earth. Backyards offer many stones to turn over, and the Smokies and Shenandoah are two of America’s most visited, yes, parks. I’m all about advocating the outdoors, but most hikers have pretty bold opinions and advice about what the trail should be, anyway.

Some want to see the vistas. You’d be better suited in a car, hitting 35 overlooks in one day on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Some want to see animals. You’d be better suited sitting still instead of blundering loudly through the woods. The deer and bear in Shenandoah are no longer afraid of humans, as they encircle picnic areas and would probably eat from a hand if (when) given the chance. Is that your expectation of wildlife? Whatever satisfies…

Some people want to live cheap. This can be done, relatively well, but at the cost of hikers’ reputation in many towns as freeloaders. Some want beer and no gut. These “thru-drinkers” can also accomplish their goal, but with a similar downside.

I don’t believe any of these reasons are wrong. The number of hikers grows each year, as people are attracted to discovering wildlife, scenic vistas, faith in a Creator, adventure, purpose, and cheap food and drink. But none of these are exclusive to the trail, and no one seems to acknowledge that fact. 

There are, however, a few reasons I can think of that truly fit yet rarely get mentioned. love of walking. It makes sense to hike the trail if you enjoy the experience of walking from dawn to dusk. I had a NOBO ask me, “what’s up with all the SOBO’s still enjoying the walking part?” I don’t know, but I love it, and for me, that’s part of the wonderful mystery of both my body and the trail.

The other part is engaging in a lifestyle that many people don’t believe is an option. They wouldn’t otherwise know it is possible. By being off the radar, I hope to add to other people’s radar a kind of path previously absent. I suppose this logic is similar to Thoreau’s in Walden: “When we consider what, to use the words of the catechism, is the chief end of man, and what are the true necessaries and means of life, it appears as if men had deliberately chosen the common mode of living because they preferred it to any other. Yet they honestly think there is no choice left. But alert and healthy natures remember that the sun rose clear. It is never too late to give up our prejudices. No way of thinking or doing, however ancient, can be trusted without proof. What everybody echoes or in silence passes by as true today may turn out to be falsehood tomorrow, mere smoke of opinion, which some had trusted for a cloud that would sprinkle fertilizing rain on their fields.”

I certainly have learned to see some “solid facts” and “only ways to do something” as mere smoke of opinion. I wonder if I fit Thoreau’s notion of “an alert and healthy nature?” If not, then add that to the list of reasons.

 

next addresses:

Michael Short // c/o General Delivery // Daleville VA 24083 // please hold for hiker // ETA Sept. 18th

NOTE: you’ll have to send that ASAP for it to reach me. if not, use this one:

Pearisburg VA 24134 // ETA Sept 22nd

Best to all,

-MKS

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